Country Smallholding Magazine Article – published in the September 2003 issue. There were two photographs; one showing a circular, stone-built, thatched house in Tipperary (Michael Hickey's), the other, 'beyond-organic' field crops (mine) near Hungry Hill, West Cork. I'll put the  photos in later.

Ireland - land of contrasts

The Roman geographers originally called the mysterious, mist-shrouded isle, Ultima Thule – the forbidding, northernmost land, regarding it as beyond civilisation, beyond redemption. Later, they called it Hibernia. The Empire was apprehensive about even invading it, although Agricola, governor of Britain (78 – 86 AD), contemplated it – "I could take that country with one legion". The ambitious governor’s comment was recorded by Tacitus, as Agricola gazed across the Northern Channel from Scotland (in fact he may have attempted invasion, secretly, illegally and in his own interests – but that, and what happened to the 6th Legion under his command, sin scéal eile – that’s another story).

Whether the Romans came or not, their empire religion (from Constantine’s Bequest, in the 4^th C.) did. The British St. Patrick, at least according to popular mythology, first converted the "heathen Irish". There were, however, earlier missionaries in Ireland (even Vatican records confirm this) and a great heresy, Pelagianism, which rocked Christendom for centuries. The people- and environment-friendly Celtic Church sprang from these times and was a competitor to Rome for almost a thousand years.
Whatever about the little contretemps between the two camps, Christianity, in its monastic incarnation, took deep root in Ireland, and with such gusto that, by the 6^th Century, even in Rome, the previously inhospitable land became known as The Island of Saints and Scholars.

Ireland was also, however, a land flowing with milk and honey, later earning it its better-known sobriquet, The Emerald Isle. Its agricultural riches, in a time when there were hardly any others, became part of the military and economic strategies of, at first, in modern times, the Danes/Vikings, and later, the Normans, followed of course by the "perfidious" English.
You may have noticed that we Irish blame the English for everything – it’s an old, old thing, mostly, I believe, to do with a Catholic interpretation of history, the Reformation and the fact that you lot mostly became Protestants and thus heretics! (Catholic-taught history ignores, however, the fact that it was a pope, the English Nicholas Breakspeare, Adrian IV, that gave Ireland away to Henry II, in 1155, in exchange for a guarantee that he would collect taxes from the naughty, almost heresiac, Irish Celtic Church).

But finally, after 750 years of "oppression", a new age dawned for Ireland in the 20^th C, and independence (and complete Catholic hegemony, and all that goes with absolute power!) came again for old Ireland. After a few blips on the screen (the Economic War with Britain in the 1930s etc) farming was incited to become more intensive and the marketing of Ireland’s status as a bulk, food producer began in earnest.

World War 11 ("The Emergency" here!) was a great stimulus to grain farming in Ireland as farmers were "encouraged" (Compulsory Tillage Act) to grow corn for Britain – an economic variation of the 19^th C. political statement, "England’s difficulty is Ireland’s opportunity" – for which, of course we got well paid. It was a good war for Ireland, even if there were a few stray German bombs "accidentally" dropped on Dublin. Incidentally, all crashed British airmen escaped – none of the Germans did. It was rather comfortable and relaxed in the open Curragh prison camp. The food was first class too – organic of course. The fact that there was any at all was a huge attraction to the famished Germans. In fact, the food was so good and so plentiful that some U-Boat crews took enormous chances, not least, of court martial and execution, to clandestinely acquire potatoes and poteen from islands on the southwest coast. Diesel, unlike the Vikings Bordeaux wine, was their main barter piece. Fuel for tractors during the war was almost unobtainable. But wine, and stronger, could be bought with the proceeds and many a sheep farmer and fisherman quietly prospered throughout the Emergency.

There’s gold in them thar butter mountains

As I was growing up on the family farm in the 1950s, markets were puny again and things were difficult – but our diet was first class – again, largely organic. Our relatives from food-rationed Britain came over for eating holidays and returned with suitcases bulging with sausages, butter, steaks, even potatoes and onions, and an absolute necessity, a "ham sangwitch" for the Customs man!

Then came Kerrygold! This butter brand, the brain-child of our home-grown, Sir Anthony O’Reilly, formerly of Nestlé and Heinz, and now press baron and billionaire, marked the beginning of Ireland’s industrialised farming in the 1960s. The old, traditional, organic ways were abandoned, and, again with gusto (our atrocious, turncoat syndrome perhaps?), we embraced this new religion, the Petro-Chemical Way of Farming.

In a frighteningly quick time, with the full, deep pockets of the EU’s, Common Agricultural Policy (which we became adept at picking – we are after all, a nation of cattle and horse dealers!), Ireland’s "forty shades of green" became a more nitrogen-fixed, slurry-enriched, shocking mono-green. On my way, ironically enough, to an organic conference in May this year, I did a traverse of the country by train. Those dense, limp, wildlife-unfriendly swards were everywhere, as was the presence of the ugly, concrete emplacements to accept their fills of the "precision chopped" forced, Italian Ryegrass, drizzled with formic acid and the rest. I know all about it – I was a successful, conventional farmer twice in my existence.

I would just like to remind you also, on the question of CAP finances, that, as Britain is a major net contributor to EU coffers, it’s the British taxpayer’s pockets that we’ve been mostly rifling to finance our blitzkrieg on traditional farming! Some of our negotiators ran horse-dealing rings around the innocent financial Eurocrats - and with considerable glee at times! This was not penny ante - these were the biggest stakes ever played for in Ireland – multiple billions. Paddy, cap-in-hand, pleading poverty (no motorways! High unemployment), with hand out for handouts, was a familiar figure in Brussels back in the 1980s and ‘90s. Some came from high office at home, others went on to high office in Brussels. Sure everybody loves a rogue!

Another outcome of our superior, persuasive (some would say, "bullying") dealing and mendicant (gene-inherited from our monastic past?) powers in Europe is the fantastic waterfall of billions of Euro we’ve conned from you all to build our motorways to nowhere (that’s another story).

But thanks very much anyway – it all largely enabled us to establish the Celtic Tiger, which has given us such a great ride so far, creating thousands of highly qualified, out-of-work, hi-tech graduates, and, in the process, making Dublin the dearest, domestic property market in the world.

All the focus on hi-tech industries and intensified farming in Ireland has resulted in a kind of myopia in the corridors of political power about organic farming. Of course, adding to this, is the relative importance of agriculture in Ireland’s economy; not first anymore, but still a huge fourth, after the computer industry, pharmaceuticals and tourism. Also, many still have roots on the land, not least politicians, and, although we gripe amongst ourselves about food safety scandals and similar issues, it is felt to be a tad unpatriotic to criticise our food industry too loudly - in case the foreigners might hear! And, calamity, stop buying! Shush! Just between our selves, even mother Russia, desperate for meat would only take beef from certain Irish counties because of BSE. Germans were shocked by documentaries on Irish food scandals, especially the one about the farmer here in the southwest that deliberately introduced a BSE infected cow into his herd in order to claim the generous compensation. In consequence, they beat a path away from our door when importing food in recent times.
All of which leads to a semi-official policy; To support organic food and its benefits is to criticise our wonderful conventional food. Our cunning food czars have come up with an Irish solution to an Irish problem; All farming in Ireland is organic! This is the government’s response to the food scandals (we still have significant numbers of official BSE cases every week) and the challenge of changing farming to the type of environmental stewardship Herr Fischler and his backers want for the future. The agriculture ministry, the food bodies and the powerful Irish Farmers Association are now telling all and sundry that we are still producing meat largely from grass (Angel Dust scandals and illegal antibiotic use notwithstanding). Joe Walsh, the senior Ag. Min., recently said, "Sustainable EU beef markets are our priority" – not, you will notice, markets for sustainable beef!

I started a website over two years ago to try to inject some information and comment into the debate on the future of agriculture in Ireland mainly, and organics in general. One of the spurs to action was the awful attitude to organics of the then, junior minister for agriculture, whom, I’m almost ashamed to say, is a cousin. But to be fair, he just reflected the attitude of his senior minister, the rest of the government and the conventional farming community. The website has become a bit of an all-consuming passion. With over 120,000 hits per month, about half from without Ireland, mostly on my News page, I have some success in getting through to the powers that be and, I hope, being a little entertaining on the way. In official government circles and, indeed, in some organic groups, I am regarded as a pariah, a traitor, unnecessarily knocking the farming industry, giving Irish food a bad image abroad, and affecting our food export sales. That I ultimately have the best interests of the farming community and the Irish consumer, and indeed consumers of our food further afield, is too remote an ideal for short-term politicians and farm leaders to grasp.

For a country that relies so much on agriculture, it is a crying shame that we have nobody with vision in positions of power. I had this to say in a recent article addressed to those "leaders"; "The great pity is that farm leaders and gov. are running around like headless chickens when they should be leading. It seems to me that they have settled for second best, leaving the vision and action to others, mostly in Brussels, and it should be said, the UK, and accepted the acquiescent role of being EU cheque-in-the-post senders and form-stampers." They have over 4,000 staff for this work and their shared remit (with the Irish Food Safety Authority) of food safety! 

On the other hand, there was a government-sponsored report on the organic sector published last year that was interesting in its analysis, and, generally, a good foundation to build on. But even in that, the civil servants betrayed their real sympathies; "We’re all right, Jack", they imply; the conventional food sector is producing, quote, "more and more quality and safety-assured food" and consumers "probably still the majority, accept that basic standards of food safety are adequate and effective." That’s hogwash!

Another interesting thing that a food board came up with (quoted in the report), is that the British Soil Association symbol is better recognised than any of the three Irish symbols. The Irish symbol bestowers, small and beleagured by income restraints and fluctuating membership, seem to be their own worst enemies. One in particular, at present is riven with internal dissent and losing the loyalty of its supporters.

The latest (desperate?) re-invention of Ireland as a quality food producer and exporter by the agri-food bureaucrats is the marketing blitz: Ireland -The Food Island. Millions are being spent trying to restore Ireland’s image as a quality food producer, without doing an awful lot to correct the underlying problems. Food safety crises keep recurring and the loss of quality, fresh-food sophisticated markets, has resulted in the necessity to dump our huge meat surpluses in the undemanding bulk markets, of Iraq, Iran, Libya and so on.

What our food bureaucrats won’t tell you, is that Ireland’s reputation as a premium quality producer has been shattered in recent years. And in terms of climbing out of that hole – they are not taking the obvious option of the organic route, like so many other European countries and the US (which despite the current, bullying food trade negotiations and Bush’s pro-GM stance, has the best organic standards in the world and the fastest developing organic sector). Ireland has the lowest proportion of organic production in Europe, if you exclude meat, and the second lowest if you include it. Britain has now six times, proportionately, more land devoted to organics than Ireland. You’re still way behind other European countries like Austria, Denmark, Italy and Sweden, but the trend is really promising, and you have at least one good guy, Michael Meacher, in the agri/environmental saddle. Mind you, British agriculture went pretty low before the climb back began!

The organic horticultural industry here also, in comparison to the average in Europe, is piddling, and, it would seem, contracting, whilst we import the vast bulk of our organic fruit and vegetables.

Everyone seems to complain about the quality of our food nowadays, but the biggest criticism of all is reserved for our national staple. "You can’t get a decent potato anymore" is something I hear all the time, especially from country people. Young Irish city-folk know no better and, I’m afraid, like the British, favour the "wet spud", much beloved of the intensive grower, who can pile on the fertiliser and other chemicals. You’re hooked, and have forgotten the original taste of good potatoes. The more chemical stimulants used in growing potatoes, the less the dry-matter content of the vegetable, the wetter the spud. When I went to England first in the 1960s I was appalled at the quality of your potatoes. At home we would not have fed such rubbish to pigs! But, as they say, it’s what you get used to. And yet the best potato I’ve eaten in modern times comes from Britain – the Negga Tattie. Heard of it? I grow it, and now a lot of my neighbours, including conventional farmers, grow it too.

I would just like to remind you also, on the question of CAP finances, that, as Britain is a major net contributor to EU coffers, it’s the British taxpayer’s pockets that we’ve been mostly rifling to finance our blitzkrieg on traditional farming! Some of our negotiators ran horse-dealing rings around the innocent financial Eurocrats - and with considerable glee at times! This was not penny ante - these were the biggest stakes ever played for in Ireland. Paddy, cap-in-hand and pleading poverty (nary a motorway and no jobs) with his hand out for hand-outs, was a familiar figure in Brussels back in the 1980s and 1990s. Some of those guys were so convincing that they went on to become big players in Brussels.

Another outcome of our superior, persuasive (some would say, "bullying"), dealing and mendicant powers (a relic of our monastic days?) in Europe, is the fantastic waterfall of billions of Euro we’ve conned from you all to build our motorways to nowhere and obliterate under tarmac some of the finest land, and valuable archaeological sites, in the world (but that’s another story).

Are you getting the impression from me that unlike the rest of the developed world, with huge growth rates in organics, Ireland’s organic industry is in a parlous state?
Well, it’s true - that’s how it is. But the scene is not devoid of all signs of life. And, without wanting to appear to ingratiate myself with British readers, it’s true that we have you people to thank for a lot of the current life signs.

Ireland had another invasion about 25 years ago. The New Age migrants, mostly British, Dutch and German, came to Ireland to escape from increasing industrialisation and nascent state fascism in Europe. Today, particularly the British, constitute a large part of the organic movement in Ireland. Only this June, I attended a farm walk here in the southwest given by Bob Allen, a typical example of the 1970’s émigré/political/social refugee. There was a huge attendance, lively questions and entertaining and informative answers as the middle-aged, Birkenhead-born, organic pioneer led us around his 20 acre, 7-polytunnel, vegetable- and fruit-producing holding. I was particularly impressed with his experiences growing lemon balm, and processing it to extract its essential oil – 0.8 litres per acre, but at over €4,000 per litre! He sadly had to give up when adulterated products came on the market and the price dropped by half.

But Allen’s energy, enthusiasm, inventiveness and idealism still abounds. He is a member of a local group called, appropriately enough, Growing Awareness. Most of the committee is English. They organised two of the most dynamic and successful conferences ever seen in Ireland, in 1999 and 2000 - on a total shoestring! But, with oodles of talent and idealistic passion, who needs corporate or government support? British smallholders seem to slot in here in Ireland much better than any of the other nationalities. Germans and Dutch tend to be a mite didactic, and think that they have invented everything about organics, and that there is only one way – their way. They fail to see, and draw on the fact, that many local, older, traditional farmers have a lot to offer. The British too have a sense of humour, and an attitude of modest self-deprecation (even when - maybe especially when - highly accomplished themselves) that appeals to the Irish taste.
The coastal and relatively unspoilt rural areas of the interior of the country have attracted many of these people to set up smallholdings and organic enterprises and they are in many ways a seed resource to launch a new type of agriculture and way of life. But it hasn’t happened in any major way yet.

There were of course Irish amongst the pioneers of the modern organic movement – but so very few. One that stands out is Michael Hickey, from Tipperary, an organic beef producer for over twenty years and a lively speaker, at conferences. He is a founder member of one of the three organic certifying bodies in the country. He has shown a particular adroitness at getting through to conventional farmers. One of the things he recently emphasised was the sense of isolation amongst his peers that a farmer experiences when he converts to organic. That is quite a big issue. Organics, though hailed in many countries as having gone "mainstream", in Ireland, it is still associated with a dippy, hippy lifestyle and the powers that be seem to still regard it in that way.

And yet there is light at the end of the (poly?) tunnel. The government, even the organic organisations, might be completely outflanked. Direct selling to the consumer is taking off like a rocket. Farmers’ markets are now growing apace with several excellent ones in and around Dublin and Cork City in particular. Almost every week, I am being told of new ones or of old ones being extended, and have to update my website’s, Where to Buy page (I also include much UK information and news). Organic produce is increasingly being offered at the widespread, and long-established Irish Countrywomens Association, Country Markets. The Slow Food movement, originating in Italy, is spreading its network energetically and some supermarkets are fast trying to catch up with Tesco Ireland in offering more organic lines. As I mentioned, in Bob Allen’s case above, there are big turnouts for the many farm walks, festivals, barbecues etc on organic holdings, with usually a goodly proportion of local conventional food producers – unheard of until recently. The grossly under-funded and marginalised, organic further education centres do splendid work and put on spirited and colourful open days that inspire not only their students and the converted but the local communities as well.

The government may even act on the organic report! But, as the Celtic Tiger lies mewling in the corner, all sorts of good projects are being abandoned, and as I’ve said above, food quality and safety doesn’t really rate enough for priority treatment.

Food quality should be too important an issue to be left solely to politicians. But consumers in Ireland have until recently largely abdicated their responsibilities in this area to the government and its agencies. If the country is ever again to become the quality, safe, food producer she used to be, consumers must continue to wake up, shake off the domination of a grubby, corporate agri-industry and its accommodating politicians, and demand, healthy food for all its citizens at affordable prices.
It would only follow then that we would have glorious sausages, butter and steaks again to proudly export to the world at large. And a vastly improved environment, a healthier people and rural regeneration and wealth.
To all of you out there producing much of your own food and more on smallholdings, feel privileged that you have the opportunity, denied to many, to monitor and enjoy the quality of food. The welfare of animals on your small-scale enterprises is an added pleasure and bonus. Let’s have more of it.