Sunday Business Post Nov 7th 2004
(Sorry about the formatting, but it  would take too long to adjust it. Blame MS)

Why the price is right

By Chris Pillow


Ireland may be one of the wealthiest countries per capita in the world, but its citizens are fast realising that with staggering economic growth comes an equally staggering rise in the cost of living, a Faustian pact if ever there was one.

Food prices have gone up by 26 per cent in the last seven years, according to figures from the Central Statistics Office.

A survey by Fine Gael of the price of a shopping basket of beef, milk, eggs and a range of vegetables revealed that while farmers gets €8.29 for their toil, the average supermarket charges €18.14 - a mark-up of 119 per cent.

Newspaper headlines scream `Rip-Off Ireland' and opposition parties point to supermarket mark-ups of up to 300 per cent on items as humble as a bag of potatoes.


Yet our response to high costs has amounted to little more than a good old moan, coupled with the odd threat to shop in the North.

But around the country, individuals are finding ways to beat the supermarket trap.

Box delivery schemes, farmers' markets and buying clubs offer alternative methods of sourcing produce; alternatives that not only give better deal to farmers, but, because they favour organic methods of production, also support the environment and are good for your health.

One way of getting value for money and produce that is better for your health is to take your custom to one of the 42 farmers' markets around the country, many of which specialise in organic food.

Denis Healy, an organic farmer based in Kiltegan, Co Wicklow, has been selling his fruit and vegetables in farmers' markets for eight years. He believes the markets offer a unique opportunity for growers.

``In the markets you can respond to your customers' needs,'' he says. ``You can grow what you like and what your customers like.

``Generally your produce will be cheaper than the supermarkets', and the farmers will get most of the profits.''

Healy sells over 60 different kinds of fruit and vegetables, some of which he imports to meet his customers' increasingly exotic tastes.

``I have a huge range,'' he says. ``If it's organic, I get it.''

Pink fir apple potatoes, heritage tomatoes and wild mushrooms can all be found at Healy's stalls.

Like many other organic producers, Healy first tried selling his produce to super- markets. ``It was a big rigmarole. You have producers, wholesalers and distributors involved. There wasn't a living in it.''

Despite working manic hours, Healy seems to have found his niche, and is cautiously optimistic that there is a good living to be made selling produce at markets.

Former software sales specialist John Healy found himself in the organic food business by chance rather than by design. His wife, while on a career break, set up an organic box delivery business modelled on an existing London company.

After a six-month trial period, the response was strong enough for Absolutely Organic, the fledgling company, to become viable. His wife went back to work and he took over the reins, eager to take a break from the high-pressure world of software sales.

``I knew nothing about the retail business or the food business,'' he says. ``I did it to de-stress.''

Healy did have certain concepts he wanted to bring to the new company. One was providing consumers with a product other than the standard supermarket fare.

He also wanted to give organic growers another channel to market their produce.

Box delivery schemes are based on a simple formula: you pay between €15 and €25 and someone will call to your door with enough organic fruit and vegetables to last you the week.

The main advantage of buying through a box scheme is that the food is seasonal and farm-fresh. You are also supporting local farmers, who get a better deal on what they grow than they would if they sold to a supermarket.

Customers can tailor their weekly delivery, choosing from an organic range of fruit and vegetables, jam, pasta, bread and wine.

``Box schemes are one of the best alternatives to shopping in supermarkets, because they offer a high level of flexibility,'' says Healy.

The company has 350 customers in the Dublin area - a tenfold increase since it started out seven years ago.

For those with a little more time on their hands, buying clubs offer another way of sourcing fresh produce.

Jacqui Caulfield and her partner, Joe Kelly, have been involved in a buying club for the last five years.

The six-member club in north Dublin operates on a fortnightly rotation. Every two weeks one of the members drives to Dominick and Hilda Quinn's organic farm in Castleruddery, Co Wicklow, and picks up a prepared box of fruit and vegetables for each member, then returns to Dublin and distributes the boxes.

The Quinns e-mail or fax each member before the collection day to let them know what is available so they can choose what goes into their boxes.

``We get an amazing range of fresh vegetables for €25 that lasts us two weeks. We never go near supermarkets for our fruit and veg,'' says Caulfield.

According to Dominck Quinn, people buy boxes costing anywhere between €4 and €60. But he sees a €15 to €20 box meeting the weekly needs a family of four, excluding staples such as potatoes.

 

``Our prices would compare very, very favourably with conventional prices,'' says Quinn. ``People are generally surprised how reasonable the prices are.''

Quinn has 11 acres of land dedicated to producing organic vegetables. He used to sell to supermarkets, but believes their purchasing methods have forced many local producers out of business.

Quinn says supermarkets used to have a relationship with individual producers and responded to what farmers were producing.

But he says the centralised buying system operated by some supermarkets has, in many cases, done away with the one-to-one relationship with producers.

``When Tesco came in everything changed, and all the other supermarkets fell into line. Now, supermarkets offer little flexibility for small growers. There have been too many victims of that system.''

For Dolores Keegan - a tutor in organic horticulture at the Organic Centre in Rossinver, Co Leitrim - the cheapest and most rewarding alternative to supermarket shopping is to get mucked in and grow your own food.

She believes ``getting your hands dirty and growing food from seed'' is one of the best stress-busters going.

Keegan is adamant that you do not need much space to grow your own food. An eighth of an acre should be sufficient to grow a ``significant amount of food''.

And if you live in an apartment, an oak barrel or wooden box on a balcony will still allow you to grow plenty of salads and herbs.

``You are going to have the healthiest, freshest and tastiest food possible,'' she says, ``and you are going to save a lot of money.''

The Organic Centre runs one - day and weekend courses in for people interesting in learning basic growing skills. It also runs a week-long Living the Good Life course, which teaches everything from growing your own fruit and vegetables to jam, cheese and bread making.

Ireland still has a long way to go before it catches up with its European neighbours in terms of the availability of locally produced, farm-fresh food. Think the La Boqueria, the enormous daily food market in Barcelona, or the Borough Market in London.

But we are getting there. The French gourmet Anthelme Brillat-Savarin wrote in The Physiology of Taste: ``Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.''

In Ireland, it seems, how you shop can be equally revealing.